HUE

We were a little worried about Hue (pronounced Hway). In Hanoi we had heard that the rainy season was well under way and that Hue was well under water. Not sure how this would effect our two days there, we just crossed our fingers and hoped for the best.

Our flight to Hue on Vietnam Air was without incident and we were met at the other end by a driver from our hotel, the Binh Minh Sunrise Hotel owned by Madam Mai, sister to Madam Cuc of Saigon. Lucky we had arranged this because it was teeming with rain and the other passengers on the plane were fighting over the few taxis available.

It was about a half hour drive into town. The Sunrise Hotel seemed a little basic at first but the rooms were large and the beds comfortable. And the receptionist was delightful. Full of charm and giggles, we never did find out if she was Madam Mai or merely a lovely adornment in an Ao Dai.

After making ourselves comfortable, we wandered next door for (supposedly) a really good curry at Omar Khayyam's Indian Restaurant, recommended by Lonely Planet. I'm afraid the old LP is getting a trifle lost these days ... all too often we find their recommendations are not that great. I'm beginning to wonder (dare I say it?) if they are taking commission to put things in their books??? I think Omar had been in Vietnam far too long to go anywhere near a decent Indian curry. Pretty ordinary really. Still, at least we didn't get too wet!

Back at the hotel, we decided time was fleeting and we would probably be better to take an organised bus tour for our one day in Hue rather than try to sort it all out ourselves in the rain. So we spoke to the lady in reception and booked a bus tour for the following morning which would show us all the main points of interest in Hue.

	The next morning found us flooded. The street outside our hotel looked like the Perfumed River had taken over and everyone, but everyone, was dressed in natty little rain ponchos. Not to be outdone, we immediately purchased three purple monstrosities for our tour. Cath and I had a great deal of trouble persuading Guy that purple was his colour but in the end he was a good sport and resigned himself to looking like a total fool.
	These all-in-one plastic ponchos appear in all shops at the first sign of rain. Big enough to fit over a bicycle as well as the person, they are de rigeur during the rainy season in Vietnam. And cheap as chips. It's worth buying a couple and stashing them in your daypack before it rains because prices soar once the rain starts.

Hue was the capital of the Nguyen dynasty, which controlled most of southern Vietnam during the 17th to 19th century and became the national capital in 1802. It stayed as the capital until 1945 when the Communist government established itself in Hanoi. At that time, Emperor Bao Dai moved his capital to Saigon, with the help of the French colonialists. Hue's central position made it close to the borders of North and South Vietnam during the civil war. The city suffered a great deal of damage during the Tet Offensive and many historical buildings were not restored by the Communists, being seen as relics from the feudal past. However, times have changed and now parts of the city are being restored to their former glory.

	Hue is now a World Heritage Site. The Citadel, palace of the Nguyen dynasty, sits on the north side of the Perfumed River. It is a large walled area of almost 10km in circumference. Inside this area are gardens and the Imperial City itself, surrounded by a protective moat.
It was pouring with rain and quite a long walk to the Imperial City, so Cath decided to stay near the main gate and see if she could get a ride on a rickshaw around the grounds. Meanwhile Guy and I, drenched to the skin despite our purple people eater ponchos, made our way up the stairs in the palace. Below are some photos of various drums, bells and steles.

Situated at the back of the palace, the Royal Antiquities Museum has nearly 10,000 items related to the everyday life of the Nguyen dynasty (1802-1945). Items such as the royal robes in the photo on the left reflect aspects of the Nguyen royal life.

BINH MINH SUNRISE HOTEL 36 (12) Nguyen Tri Phuyong Street, Hue City, Vietnam Tel: (94)(54) 825526/830909 Web: www.binhminhhue.com    Email: binhminhhue@dng.vnn.vn