16.10.08
Explorer Tours collected us from City Gate Hotel early on Thursday morning. Our tour group leader was named Sung and he was extremely knowledgeable. His English was excellent and, as he got to know us better, he relaxed a little and started to really enjoy himself and join in the group dynamics.

Sung told us that both his parents were teachers and were not very happy that their son had a career as a tour guide. However, he said he was very happy in the role ... he improved his English, he met people from many countries and he enjoyed these things more than a traditional career.
Our airconditioned bus took several hours to get us to our embarkation point on Halong Bay. The speed limit throughout Vietnam is 60kph and our driver stuck to this limit throughout the trip.
But there was no time for boredom. With room to spread out, we could gaze out the bus windows at passing rice paddies. Crops which had been harvested were laid alongside the road to dry (see above right).
Even passing motorbikes gave entertainment, counting the number of passengers or marvelling at the amount of baggage even a bicycle could bear.
We stopped halfway for a "rest stop" and, as usual, we stopped at an outlet selling artwork, embroidery, sculpture, lacquerwareand garments. It's very hard to resist purchasing in these places - you know you could get it cheaper at a market back in Saigon or Hanoi but the quality is top rate here, there is no need to bargain ... of course we bought stuff!!! Who wouldn't? After all, Christmas is nearly upon us and what a great chance to buy gifts!!

HALONG BAY

I'm sure you've heard of Halong Bay. Vinh Ha Long, as it's called in Vietnam, is a World Heritage site featuring thousands of small islands and limestone karsts. Karsts are those limestone rocks which stick straight up out of the sea and tower above you forbiddingly. Local lore says the gods sent a family of dragons to help defend Vietnam against invaders. The dragons began spitting out jewels and jade, which turned into islands in the bay, linking together to form a great wall against the invaders.

The tour we had selected consisted of three days sailing in the bay and two nights spent on the boat itself. It cost US$149 per person and an additional US$45 per person ensured use of a kayak during the three days. This would enable us to go to shallow inlets where our junk was not able to go. Transfers to and from Hanoi and all meals were included in the price. We only had to pay for drinks.

The photo on the right shows our boat .. click on the image for a larger photo.

We arrived at our embarkation point and were amazed at the number of boats moored side by side. Passengers were being loaded on each and every one and everything was very methodical. Sung led us along a pier and guided us onto a boat and across it to our own boat which was moored alongside.
We were welcomed aboard by our crew and asked to seat ourselves at a table on the back deck (see above right) whilst they put our luggage away. Then it was inside for lunch. We couldn't believe the feast they had prepared for us ... stuffed crab, fish, fried rice, steamed vegetables, spring rolls .. the list was endless.
And their thoughtfulness didn't stop there. Cath is allergic to all forms of seafood. She was prepared to get a token dish as a substitute but no ... every time a seafood dish came to the table, Cath was served with a tiny portion of chicken, pork or beef, daintily decorated with a carrot rose or a spray of parsley.( I think a few five star restaurants could learn from this.)

Whilst we were eating our lunch, the boats all started their journey out into the Bay. Looking out the windows, we could see passing karsts with greenery clinging to the limestone cliffs.

According to Sung, all boats have to submit their course to the authorities governing Halong Bay and permits are issued. Keeping strictly to schedule, the boats must visit the sites they mention and must moor in designated areas. This not only protects the World Heritage Area but prevents piracy, which has occurred in the past.

We continued on towards our afternoon's destination, passing the famous Kissing Rocks (see right).

Guy spent all afternoon on the deck taking photographs and waving at people from the occasional floating village which appeared, huddled into a calm corner of the bay.
Our next stop was Sung Set cave, the "amazing cave" as Sung called it and it certainly was! High on the side of an island, we entered an enormous cavern which seemed to go on forever. Well lit and carefully roped, it was a fascinating cave to walk through.
Kate remarked on the absence of stalagmites to Guy. He used to do a lot of caving and explained if the seepage is slow, the calcium stays on the tip of the stalagtite and doesn't flow onwards to the ground, forming a stalagmite. (The only thing I can remember is the adage "stalagtites hang on tight and stalagmites might reach the roof".)

Our last stop for the day was Titop Island, where we went ashore for an evening swim before the boat moved back into the Bay to anchor for the night.

But the night was over by any means!

Remember ... it's Guy's birthday ... so read on ...