DELHI

Tuesday 10.10.06
We arrived from Bangkok on Thai International at 11pm. Ashu from our hotel - 1 Link Road - was waiting to meet us. The transfer cost R700 (A$20.20) .
We had wanted to book into Yatri House but it was fully booked for the first two nights of our stay, so Sanjay, our host, had arranged accommodation at another of his guesthouses at R1000 (A$28.85) per night. Our room was very nice - large, with aircon and ensuite and breakfast included.
1 LINK ROAD
(Paying Guest Accommodation)
One Link Road, Jangpura Extn, New Delhi - 110 014
(Under Defence Colony Flyover)

Tel: 41824083
Email: sanjaypuri@gmail.com
www.onelinkroad.com

Wednesday 11.10.06

We rose at 8am to find there was no water for the shower. The tap in the bath was working so a birdbath sufficed. We walked out to the communal dining room to enjoy scrambled eggs, toast, coffee and marmalade.
As 1 Link Road was some distance from the city centre, we decided to hire one of Sanjay's cars for the day at R1000 (A$28.85) including driver (which turned out to be Ashu once more).
First of all, we travelled up to the Red Fort. Ashu took us most of the way and then we caught a trishaw for the last part as cars are not allowed to wait outside the Fort.
What a terrifying experience the trishaw ride turned out to be! Crossing a six lane Indian highway on a bike - aaaargh! It took years off my life. Apparently trishaw drivers consider themselves above the laws of the road and just ride out into mainstream without a thought!
The Red Fort (Lal Qila) was built from 1638-48 by the Mogul emperor Shah Jahan. The thick red sandstone walls rise up to 33 metres and extend two kilometres along the river bank. Entry R100 (A$2.90)
There are many beautiful buildings inside the complex, including the Diwan I Khas - the hall of private audience (pictured right). The ceiling was originally inlaid with gold and silver was painted in 1911.
The world famous Peacock Throne, removed by Nadir Shah in 1739, once stood on the marble pedestal in this very hall. Nadir Shah took the throne back to Persia with him. From then, the Persian (Iranian) royalty was known as the "Peacock throne".
From the Red Fort, the same trishaw driver took us (across the six lane highway once more) to Jama Masjid (free entry, R200 (A$5.75) for camera).
This is one of the largest mosques in India, with a capacity to hold 25,000 worshippers. It was also built by Shah Jahan.( These were all built prior to the Taj Mahal.)
We climbed to the top of one of the minarets, which rise to a height of 130 feet. (An extra R20 (A$0.55) has to be paid for this privilege but it's worth it for the view across to the Red Fort). You can see how large the courtyard is from here.
We returned to Ashu and our airconditioned car and made our way to Raj Gat, the final resting place of Ghandi. This black marble memorial is situated in a large park in the middle of Old Delhi and many families were strolling around the park enjoying the sunshine (see left).
From here we inspected the India Gate, (right) a memorial to the 90,000 soldiers who laid down their lives during World War I.
Continuing, we visited Purana Qila, Safdarjang's Tomb and Humayun's Tomb.
Purana Qila was the Fort built by the second Mogul emperor, Humayun on the site of Indraprastha, the ancient capital of Pandavas. The octagonal mosque pictured on the right is purported to be where the Emperor Humayan accidently fell to his death.
Safdarjang's tomb was built in 1753 by his son, Nawab Shauja-ud-Daulah. Safdarjang's real name was Mirza Mudim Abul Mansur Khan. Safdarjang was a title. He was Governor of Oudh during the reign of Emperor Muhammad Shah and Prime Minister to his successor, Ahmad Shah.
Built in the red sandstone which is typical of most of the Mogul buildings in Delhi, it stands in the middle of a lovely garden enclosed by high walls (see right) . It follows the lines of Humayun's tomb and one can see the similarities to the Taj Mahal.

Humayun
was the second Mogul emperor and ruled northern parts of India from 1530-56. His tomb, which we visited later, (see below left) was commissioned by his wife Hamida Banu in 1565. It was one of the most beautiful buildings we saw in Delhi.
This was due partly to the magnificent architecture but also to the fact that water was running in the fountains and waterways which fill the grounds. It's amazing what a difference this makes.
In the grounds, we also saw the tomb of Isa Khan Niyazi, an Afghan noble who served the Moguls in Delhi. His tomb, (right) in the Afghani Lodi style, is built in an octagonal complex west of Humayun's Tomb.

It had been a long day and we were glad to return to 1 Link Road for our evening meal. We had decided to dine in house and were delighted by our fare. Chicken curry, rice, dhal, okra and potatoes at R300 (A$8.65). We were joined by two Englishmen who were in Delhi to help a relative who was in remand in the Indian prison system. Apparently in India one can stay on remand for up to eight years before the case comes to trial. They were hoping to hasten the date of his trial and also to find a lawyer for him.