By Train to Alexandria

26th January 2004 AUSTRALIA DAY
We arrived at Ramses Station witih time to spare to catch the noon train to Alexandria and bought our tickets. The "Turbini" was an excellent train costing EP30 (A$6.65) each and the two and a half hour trip to Iskendaria (Alexandria) passed very quickly.
At Alexandria, thanks to the map in the Lonely Planet, we were able to negotiate our way through the crowded back streets to the Corniche quite easily. And noticed one thing that set Alex apart fro the rest of Egypt - no hassles, no big sell. We walked past many stalls without being harassed at all.

The Hotel Union (our first choice) had no rooms with a view so we tried the Hotel Crillon in the next street. More expensive at EP73 (A$16.15) including breakfast, we were shown a clean room with a view clear across the harbour but had to share a bathroom with one other room. It also had a balcony - we seem to be lucky with our balconies! That view of the harbour and the Mediterranean beyond was not to be ignored so we booked the room for two nights.
Our room is in the Annexe one floor up from the Crillon itself. The centre rooms of the Annexe are furnished with dark Victorian furniture - very elegant. The bedrooms go off this "sitting room" on all sides, with bathrooms in between.

Setting off immediately on a walk in search of a calamari lunch, we walked west along Sharia 26th July, past a very striking memorial to the Unknown Soldier which was guarded by many policeman.(Later that evening it was illuminated.)
Three mosques in a group, the Mosque of Abou El-Abbas El Marsi (1219) with 4 domes, El Bosery Mosque facing it and Sidi Yahoot El Arsh opposite El Abbas caught our attention.
We continued along the Corniche until we came to Fort Qaitbey at the entrance to the harbour. This was built on the foundations of the Pharos Lighthouse, one of the seven wonders of the ancient world.
It took us some time to find a restaurant but we eventually found a "meal" for two at EP25 (A$5.55) - 2 grilled fish, calamari, shrimp and a selection of delightful salads - tomato and cucumber slices, spicy potato salad, aubergines in a tomato/garlic/olive oil sauce, a chopped mix of onion, tomato, courgette and an unidentified spicy sauce and, of course, okra.
Sated, we walked back to the hotel along "Tram Street", one street back from the seafront, where the trams run along the centre of the road from one end of Alexandria to the other.
Going one street further back, we found ourselves in the souk. A veritable wonderland of clothes, toys, gold and silversmiths, balloon salesmen - and nobody demanding you come into their shop! I went into one silversmith to ask about a necklace in the window. He was happy to show it to me but when I said "no thanks" he was polite and wished us a good evening and didn't insist that we choose something else. What a relief!